Monday, September 3, 2012

Spring Break 2012 Round Two: New Zealand Alpine Edition

So before I get to my spring break adventures, on a side note, today marks 2 months that I have lived in New Zealand…which is crazy! But amazing at the same time! I love it here and am so happy and can’t wait for all the adventures to come in the next 3.5 months!



Anyway, the week before break was kind of stressful and packed with a million things both fun and not so exciting.  I had two research papers due the Friday before I left so there was minimal sleep that Thursday night.  But aside from working on those, we celebrated Audrey’s 21st birthday on Wednesday night.  She's the one wearing the cowboy hat (her birthday present)!  We went out to dinner at Tokyo Garden for a BYO and then went to a bar downtown called the Cook.  There was literally nobody in the bar because it was a Wednesday night, but there was a cute little old Irish band there that we danced to and they seven ang Happy Birthday to Audrey.  We also asked them to play Wagon Wheel for us, and they did twice J Friday was super busy turning in my essays, attempting to skype Courtney (sorry it didn’t work), and grocery shopping.  Sophie also pulled her Red Card that night, which is essentially a game night where she invents all kinds of games and everybody has to go along with it.  The theme of the night was Game of Thrones/Harry Potter/Olympics and included races around the block and eating competitions.  It sounds weird, but it’s very popular in Dunedin and lots of fun!

And finally, Saturday morning I set off on spring break.  After a minor panic that morning because the tent that we were borrowing was locked in somebody else’s flat (props to Campus watch for being understanding and letting me into Jordan’s flat), we hit the road in a pretty run-down rental car.  There were four of us: me, Liz, Sammy, and Matt (all Americans this time).

So many of you know for my first spring break of this year I traveled to Honduras where I was hot and sweaty most of the time.  Well, you could say this spring break was a little different!  Saturday morning we drove to Te Anua, which is a small town 4 hours from Dunedin.  Our plan was to start the Kepler Track, a four day backpacking trip that is considered one of the “Great Walks” in NZ.  Unfortunately it decided to start pouring so we stopped by the Department of Conservation (DOC) to check out the weather.  One look at the forecast and we started to consider our other options as the weather called for rain and snow up on the ridge all four days.  They even warned us that the avalanche danger would very possibly change from low to moderate if any more snow fell on the mountains.  So we went to find a camp ground in town for the night.  But as soon as we started setting up the tent, it decided to pour and we ended up upgrading to a bunk room.  That night we fell asleep, still undecided about what to do, to Sammy and Matt playing the ukulele, which is amazing!

The next morning we woke up to more pouring rain and still had no clue what to do.  But after checking the forecast online and seeing a beautiful full rainbow that gave us a little hope, we decided to go for it!  So we picked up a few last minute items needed in town and drove to the trail head around noon.  And off we went!  The first hour of that track was super flat and we made great timing, but after that it was a 5 hour climb uphill for the next 3000 meters.  On our way up we ran into Xavier (from Belgian) and Meagan (from Canada) who were on their way back down.   In the final stretch we emerged from the bush line, and through our huffing and puffing, our jaws dropped at the view that surrounded us.  Snow covered mountains to one side and the lake thousands of meters below us to the other.  The forecasted rain never really came the first day and although there was minimal fog, the views were still surreal.  So we hiked the last 30 minutes to Mt. Luxmore Hut in good spirits.  After arriving at the hut and relaxing for a bit, we decided to head out and do a little spelunking at a cave near the hut.  This was a giant cave and we went pretty far down in it, squeezing through crevices and tiny holes.  But once inside, there were a lot of cool stalagmites and stalactites!   Once back to the hut, we cooked up some pasta and lentils, built a fire, hung out for a little while, and went to bed after a pretty exhausting first day!
 
 

Now the next morning, was quite a surprise.  As most of you know, I am not the normal person who likes to hide away in the winter.  I normally don’t mind the cold and winter and LOVE snow.  So that morning, I was the first to wake up to the sun coming through the window and as I turned over to look outside, all I saw was white.  I instantly grabbed my glasses and literally jumped off the ground and sprinted toward the window! I may have been a little excited J And indeed the ground was covered with a couple inches of perfect snowball powder.  I snapped some pictures of the snowy mountains and seeing that it was still pretty early and everybody else was asleep, I went back to bed for another hour.  The funny thing was, I think I had the exact same crazy reaction to the snow the second time I woke up as the first. 
Anyway, once we were ready to leave the hut midmorning, the sky was blue, which made for a beautiful couple of hours or so climb in the snow.  However, as we got higher, the snow began to fall again and once we reached the sign where we could make a detour to Mt. Luxmore peak, we decided to drop our bags to make the extra 400 meter climb.  At this point there was not much to see due to the snow storm, but we wanted to say we made it to the top anyway.  As we climbed this part of the track, I instantly noticed the weather worsening as the wind picked up to the point of blowing us off balance on the ridge and the snow pelted down on us.  But I figured this was just at the peak, so we made it to the top after a little slipping and sliding on the icy surface that probably is covered in snow most of the year.  And after a few quick pictures, we decided to get back to the trail and better weather, so we hoped. 


But once back down, I noticed that our bags were covered entirely in snow and we were almost blown over when tried to put them on.  That’s when things clicked in my head that we were in some bad weather and needed to keep moving to make it to the emergency shelter hut along the ridge about an hour and a half away.  We started booking it, but it was still very slow going as we had to shield our faces from the pelting snow and walk through up to a couple feet of snow at times.  But we eventually made it a little cold, but we had come prepared with plenty of thermals and our bag liners even serve as hypothermia bags in case of emergency.  Once inside the shelter, we decided to have lunch and watch the weather.  Luckily, once we finished eating, we opened the door to joyfully see that the snow storm had cleared and that it appeared safe to continue. 

So the rest of the walk along the ridge was much more pleasant, but we were still plowing through anything from a couple inches to a couple feet.  But the clouds did clear enough for us to see the beautiful mountains we were walking though!  And we only lost the trail once (we came prepared with laminated topo maps and Matt is very skilled in navigation) for a brief period!  At this point it was already a packed day, but the next hut, Iris Burn, was in the valley so we eventually said goodbye to the snow (a sad time for me J) and made our way down along a beautiful river to the hut.  When we arrived at the hut, we were surprised to find another group of international Otago students there who had decided to complete the trail in the opposite direction.  So we hung out and got to know them for a while, cooked some delicious burritos, and reflected on our ridiculously crazy and eventful day!

The next morning, after sleeping in a little and packing up our gear, we made a quick side stop to a waterfall and then hit the trail.  This day was mostly downhill and the weather was very clear as we were able to look up and see the gorgeous mountains were had climbed.  The day was not too eventful as we walked along the lake and soaked in the fairly warm weather in our t-shirts.  Once we arrived at the hut, we were warm enough (and sore enough) that Sammy, Matt, and I decided to go for a swim…well, more like a freezing dip!  Don't let the picture fool you, it was very chilly outside and inside the water!  But it was quite refreshing, the whole minute I stayed in there!  And the only “shower” I had in 5 days.    Unfortunately as soon as we jumped out onto the beach, the sandflies attacked.  Sandflies look like gnats, but act WAY worse than mosquitos in my opinion.  They hurt when they bite you and are everywhere!  I quickly ran inside to escape.  Afterwards, we cooked dinner, played some cards, and watched the sunset over the lake.


The next morning we got ready swatting the sandflies as we packed up our gear and headed out.  It was the last day of the trail and we were all pretty exhausted, but still in good spirits! The day was very easy and mostly downhill or flat through forest.  Somehow we really lucked up because the only form of precipitation we ever saw was the snowstorm!  The last day was about 5 hours and we were so happy to see our car!  After changing out of our smelly clothes, we went and grabbed some fish ‘n’ chips, realizing it was probably okay to eat something a little fried and unhealthy after so much hiking.  And after rearranging the car (this car was very small and had to be carefully packed to fit everything in it and even then Liz and I had to hold stuff on our laps in the backseat) and set off on the next phase of break: Fiordland National Park!

The road from Te Anua to Milford Sound (the main “town” in Fiordland) is pretty treacherous and winding, but the views were spectacular.  We arrived early evening and checked into the Milford Sound Lodge campground.  As we were unpacking the car, I saw Xavier sitting inside the lodge and ran in and gave him a huge bear hug, something he probably did not appreciate due to my lack of a shower in five or so days.  Small word…or small country!?!  That night we finally took a hot shower, cooked a delicious meal, and hung out with Xavier for a while. 

 We woke up early the next morning to catch a cruise out onto the sound.  And considering it rains most of the time in Fiorldland, we could not have asked for better weather! The sun was shining and the mountains created a perfect reflection in the clear blue water.  We even saw some dolphins and lots of seals on the cruise!  We also realized that Xavier and Meagan did not have a ride to see anything else because they had taken a tour bus, so we decided to squeeze them into our car and head to Lake Marian.  It was a difficult climb to the lake within the mountains, but totally worth it as we enjoyed our packed lunches in the sunshine!  Afterwards, we drove them back to the lodge, grabbed all of our gear from the drying room (we may have used their facilities after checking out without them knowing), and headed back up Milford road to a campground literally out in the middle of nowhere. 

 

 

The next day we drove down to Lake Manapouri and enjoyed some pancakes on the shore and after a little stressful deliberation over whether or not we should continue south to complete the Hump Ridge track as we initially planned, we decided to head north to Mt. Aspiring National Park due to weather concerns.  So we drove through Queenstown, ate at the famous Ferg Burger, and then drove on into Wanacka.  We stayed in a hostel called Base-X and although they were having a huge night at the bar with lots of NZ bands, we decided to go to bed after a long days travel.  The next day, we got up and drove into Mt. Aspiring and hiked out to Colloquians beach along the Mineret Burns track.  After the hike, Matt decided to take our car out onto the lake’s beach, even after we all said that might not be the best idea.  Well we ended up getting out rental car stuck, not once, but three times! Each time, Matt had to get out and push the car!  After that, we visited a set of twin waterfalls and then Liz and I dropped Matt and Sammy off.  They decided to hike into a hut, but since it had started pouring, Liz and I chose to head back and stay at Base-X.  We met a couple other international students at other universities around NZ that night, which was pretty cool!

The next morning, Liz and I hopped in the car to pick up the other 2.  The day before, there were about half a dozen small rivers to ford in the car, but considering the heavy downpour for 24 hours, these rivers rose a good bit and I was nervous to drive the car into the first one as I couldn’t see the bottom.  So we pulled over and tried to figure out what to do.  Sammy and Matt were another couple hours of walking down the road and we had no clue if they would even decide to walk back towards us and we had no way of contacting them with no phone reception.  Luckily, a couple headed out for a little exercise (in the pouring rain???) drove by and I flagged them down.  I explained the situation to them and they offered to go through the river in their Land Rover to see how deep it was.  They made it through fine, but we determined it was still too deep and fast for me to take a much smaller and low 2-wheel drive vehicle through it.  Luckily, they were awesome people and super nice, even determined “not to abandon our mates” as they said and offered to pick them up for us.  So about an hour later they arrived back (at this point it has started snowing a little) with a very soaking Matt and Sammy.  The funny thing was, they were going back to get another group who were stuck because their car wouldn’t start!  Liz and I were so grateful for them!  But anyway, we found a place to dry off and finally headed back to Dunedin!

Today, we took the car out to Moeraki Boulders, an hour north of Dunedin.  These giant rocks along the beach are quite the sight!  They form through mineral precipitation from the ground water which cements loose sediment together.  Many of them even contain fossils!  They are pretty large and climbing on them can be difficult when wet, as I even have a photo of me wiping out trying to hop on one (sorry that one didn’t make the cut to actually be displayed in this blog)!



Overall, break was one heck of a crazy and exciting adventure with heaps of fun!!!  Now it’s back to the real world with school work and a test coming up this week!  Hope everybody is great stateside!
 

 

 

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